Hide and Seek: Finding A Sustainable Alternative to Leather
The bovine beauties that graze on open pastures are hiding a greater cost than what the consumers pay for in their meat and hide. Twenty-eight times more land and eleven times more irrigation water is invested in the upkeep of cattle than in other common livestock [21], so the cowhide rug adorning the hardwood of your local furrier’s shop is more costly than it seems -- at least for the environment. However, mycelium leather has recently emerged as an environmentally friendly alternative to real leather, all without the massive amounts of land and water required for it. Moreover, mycelium is aesthetically versatile and can provide the same eye-catching, luxurious value in a home as a cowhide rug. Actually, the concept of utilizing myco-leather is less speculation and more extremely feasible, as proved by the likes of fashion designer and animal rights activist
Stella McCartney, who has debuted a prototype of her Falabella bag made entirely from mycelium leather [29]. So the big question is, how hard can this be? The answer is not at all. In this section, we will be diving into the fabrication process for myco-leather and exploring the versatility of this material that has the same kind of luxury as a McCartney bag.
The recipe for this speculation draws upon the techniques described by PhD Researcher Elise Elsacker at the Vrije Universiteit Brussel via the BioFab forum [24] as well as in combination with our own experimentation. The mycelium we’ll be using comes from the mushroom species Pleurotus ostreatus, otherwise known as your friendly neighborhood oyster mushroom. A single petri-dish size of viable mycelium should be sufficient, and this can be easily extracted from a kit ordered online. Alternatively, use oyster mushroom stems from the grocery store.
Sawdust pellets are a wise choice for the substrate. They are relatively affordable, and the pasteurization process they undergo means that there is no need to sterilize the substrate, saving time and money -- a double win. To make the cells grow big and strong in record time, it would be beneficial to hydrate the pellets in a sterilized medium of malt extract, yeast extract, peptone, glucose, and distilled water. These ingredients provide the building blocks for the mycelium proteins themselves, as well as with the energy it needs. No autoclave is needed for the liquid growth medium sterilization -- a home kitchen pressure cooker will do perfectly. Pack the substrate in a thin layer in a shallow container of the desired size (preferably also transparent, so you can watch it grow and maniacally laugh, “it’s alive!”).
After an ideal period of incubation at slightly above room temperature and in high moisture, the myco-leather will grow at its maximum rate. Oyster mushrooms like to bask in warm and humid environments, so this will ensure that the hyphae grow all the way through the substrate as fast as possible. Once this happens, the sheet can be harvested. While the sheet is still alive and somewhat humid, preserve the flexibility by soaking it in an equal parts choline chloride and ethylene glycol plasticizer. This optional step will emphasize the characteristics of actual leather: flexible, durable, and versatile. After this, allow it to fully dry, ideally at a high temperature (i.e. dehydrator or low temperature oven), to stop the growth of the mycelium. Since the substrate layer was thin, it will be easy to cut it into your desired shape, including the silhouette of a real-life cowhide.
With this speculative recipe, a myco-leather rug should be able to grow to the size of a standard cowhide within a couple of weeks, compared to the years it takes to raise a cow for slaughter [25]. Affordable, accessible materials and clear, comprehensible instructions make this speculation less of a shot-in-the-dark concept and, instead, a highly feasible grow-it-yourself project. Imagine that: a myco-leather cowhide for a fraction of the time and cost for the real, unsustainable thing. The combination of its raw style and the environmentally-friendly morality boost will very soon have you asking “does IKEA have this in stock, yet?”. Unfortunately, they don’t, so it’s a good thing you can now make this conversation starter yourself to adorn your hardwood floor in no time.
Molds
Tools
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A transparent plastic or resin container
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Ethylene glycol
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Choline chloride
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Scissors or an Exacto knife
Mycelium
Materials
Step one
Step two
Step three
Final steps
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Obtain a container of desired size
Final Artifact Process
Let the mycelium grow in the molds until molds are completely white
Remove mycelium from molds and soak in equal parts choline chloride and ethylene glycol plasticizer mixture for 48 hours
Gently rinse the sheet with distilled water so that all of the plasticizer is removed
Remove mycelium from molds and let dry for 1-2 days
Cut into the desired shape desired
You have made myco-leather!